Dior and flowers

Christian Dior- "After women, flowers are the most divine creations"

Flowers have always been at the heart of Dior. They are ascetically pleasing, symbolic and they embody the elegance and femininity that Dior portrays.

I think that nature would be a good theme to focus on, looking at gardens and flowers, particularly lily of the valley, which is the main note of the Diorissimo perfume. This reminisces the passion Christian Dior had for horticulture and his love for that particular flower. Dior is a brand which always pays homage to its history and legacy, but at the same time keeping it innovative and modern, which is what I hope to achieve.  

With lily of the valley being a flower associated with may day, every 1st of may there could be a themed event or pop up promoting Diorissimo to celebrate may day.

As lily of the valley is a woodland flower I think that a forest or the woods would be a good setting for the campaign/film. This would keep in touch with the macro trend neo-tolkienism on LSN global. This trend has developed through peoples love of fantasy and fairytales, it is no longer something which is associated with geeks and nerds as the genre has taken hold of imaginations all over the world. The obsession has grown thanks to TV shows and films such as Game of thrones, Lord of the rings, Harry Potter and the hunger games etc. Events such as comic-con have grown and also cosplay. 

However, neo-tolkienism is a trend which embodies darkness and I still want to push the idea of Diorissimo being a spring scent, so I want to capture spring time in the woods, with the sun shining through the trees, but the shadows add a darker element to it.    

‘We are living in a science fiction world now, seeing new technology around us all the time,’ says Mark Chadbourn, fantasy author and BBC scriptwriter. ‘This has changed the way people think about the world and opened them up to fantastical storytelling because at the moment, we cannot tell what is real and what is not.’ 

The Dolce&gabbana autumn winter 2014 ad clearly shows the medieval/fantasy/fairytale like theme which neo-tolkienism illustrates. We can see this through the embellished chain mail like  garments, crowns and the sense of medieval kings and queens. Also the setting plays a big part in creating a quite a dark fantasy like atmosphere.

Here I was just playing around with the silhouette of the bottle, overlaying the template with images of nature. I found that they are simple but effective and I could develop this on into a touch point. For example there could be life-size silhouettes of the bottle planted around fashion areas which people could get there photo taken in. Through social media platforms people can share the image and include hashtags such as #Diorissimo. 

The use of the silhouette could also be used as the tester cards that are used to try the perfume which are featured in magazines and shops.

for example:

As we have to create a 20 second film for the project, I decided to try out some filming. I know that I want to shoot in the woods and so I wanted to collect some footage being in the woods. In my actual film I will obviously feature a model in it. Also I will bring a tripod with me next time as the footage is quite shaky. 

(change quality to 1080p)

                                       

I also took some shots whilst I was there...

As lily of the Valley is one of the main notes I know I want to feature it in my campaigns and so I gathered some up which I could use. Unfortunately because it is not spring it is hard to find real lily of the valley and so alternatively I have got some realistic fake lily of the valley which I have photographed below.

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New fragrance Launches- more competition for Dior

These are some of the main fragrance Launches of 2014

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Target market

Over the years Diorissimo has become a dated scent which is mainly attracted to older women. These are probably the women who bought it when they were young and continued to wear it. When it came out it was known to be young and fresh, but nowadays it seems that Miss Dior and Dior addict are the scents which tend to attract a younger and quite cheeky audience. For Diorissimo I want to target a new audience to bring back the young fresh image it once was before, but in a modern way. 

The Diorissimo woman 
-I feel that the Diorissimo woman is elegant and natural.
- She's natural in a way that she doesn't wear much make-up but still looks and feels beautiful.
- She's in touch with the natural world, likes to be outdoors and keeps healthy, through exercise and organic products.
-taking the dog out for a walks in the park 
-18 to late 20s  
-Playful, energetic, likes to have fun.
-carefree 
-lives in suburban areas but still close to the city

Although I may be targeting a younger audience there is a new group of consumers called 'the flat age society' who over the age of 50 but they have a lot in common with the younger generation.  

  
What is the flat age society?
The flat agers are consumers who are over the age of 50 and do not want to be defined by their age. They are the first baby boomers, born between the mid- 1940s and the mid-1950s and in 10 to 15 years’ time, the later boomers – known widely as Generation Jones (born between 1954 and 1965) – will be next. Youth isn't in the growth anymore, the flat agers are as they are the ones who have money to spend and by 2015 it is estimated that there will be 2 billion consumers within the flat age society.

More and more of these consumers are becoming tech savvy and want devices to help them connect to the world. Over 30% of US baby boomers in the 50–64 age range own tablet computers like the iPad, according to Pew. Flat Agers are the most rapid adopters of social media networks in the United States, with usage rising to 43% of over-65s in 2013. They are also busy buying online, using comparison-shopping online sites and they are up for fun, innovative services. This is why social media platforms would be a good way to access this type of consumer. 

Nowadays people seem to live longer and retire later. They are healthier and so they simply don’t look, act or feel old. Flat agers have things in common with the millennial. They are like adventures and often want experiences which feel like they always have experienced since the were in there 20s. The re-adverturers are keen on eco-themed luxury travel. "They want to have a memorable experience of fun and romance, but they also want safety, security, luxury, all the things that make them feel comfortable," says Dychtwald. People over 50 are also interested in boosting their nutrition and buying organic, healthy products.

Also many are fashion conscious. They are the 'flat-age fashionistas'. Many older models are being featured in fashion advertising such as the 2014 pre-autumn lookbook for The Row, the couture label by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and you’ll find 65-year-old beauty Rodin gracing several of its pages.

Another example would be actress Jessica Lange, 64, was announced as the face of Marc Jacobs’ new beauty campaign in February 2014,

and actress Charlotte Rampling, 68, is the new ambassador for NARS’ 20th anniversary campaign. Model Daphne Selfe, meanwhile, featured in TK Maxx’s 2013 autumn/winter campaign. Also Jacky O'Shaughnessy made American Apparels campaigns at 63. 

Lanvins fall 2012 campaign is another example

In terms of beauty, they don't want to always be told that they need to buy anti-aging products in order to feel and look young. They want to embrace there age and feel beautiful the way that they are. Some brands are moving towards more positive marketing of beauty for 50-plus consumers. YSL recently launched Or Rouge, a skincare product featuring saffron, which YSL is promoting as a ‘renaissance treatment’ rather than an anti-ageing cream. ‘[The message] is more positive and affirming than anti-ageing,’ Bella Blissett, beauty columnist for The Mail on Sunday’s You magazine and freelance beauty editor, tells LS:N Global. ‘A key word is vitality, which comes from the root word vital, which means ‘life’,’ adds Dr Furlong.

Icons which embody the flat-age society include Vogue editor Anna Wintour is 64. David Bowie is 67. Mick Jagger is 70.

  

   



      

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Competition

Although Dior is a strong, influential brand there will always be high competition from brands which are also in the same fashion market sector as Dior. 

One of Diors main competitors is Chanel, not only in fashion but also in beauty. 

In terms of fragrances Bernard Arnault stated that the company aims to make J’Adore Dior the world’s best-selling women’s fragrance. He went on to say how the fragrance has already overtaken its main rival (Chanel No 5) in many markets around the world and has retained its leading position in France, which both brands originate from. Mr Arnault then went on state the strong performance of Christian Dior fragrances, including J’Adore, is a key growth driver of LVMH’s Cosmetics and Fragrances division.

2013 marked a crucial turning point for both J’Adore and LVMH as J’Adore overtook Chanel No 5 to become the best-selling women’s fragrance in China. Of the top 10 markets in women’s premium fragrances in 2013, J’Adore ranked first in four of them, two more than its main rival, which had a higher ranking in the rest of the top 10 with the exception of South Africa.

Chanels advantage is that they have strength in developed markets which include the UK, US and Germany. The size of these markets are crucial in taking the lead position globally. For this reason in the past years Dior has been working to boost brand awareness and exposure in the Uk. For example Diors takeover in Harrods last year with the Dior exhibition. 

In Harrods the ultimate Dior experience was created for the public to witness. The theme was a blend of "French Savior Fair and British charm"

The opening of the beauty boutique in Covent Garden is another example of Dior boosting brand awareness. It just so happens the launch of Diors beauty shop happened just one year after Chanel opened there beauty boutique and it is positioned exactly next to it, demonstrating the battle between the two brands. The launch was also just a few months after Aesop's arrival near by kings street. Covent garden is quickly becoming the main hub for the worlds leading beauty brands. Another brand which is launched a beauty boutique in Covent Garden is Burberry. Which again is another one of  Diors competitors. 

Also in Selfridges the Dior and Chanel beauty stands are placed exactly opposite each other in store.

Promotion wise for Dior in the US includes the addition of dedicated space for the new La Collection Privée Christian Dior in Saks Fifth Avenue, a mother and daughter tea event organised by the retailer and the high-profile Christian Dior Cruise 2015 fashion show in Brooklyn, which promoted the brand’s values. On the other hand Chanel’s has a US beauty website, with videos featuring the well-known make-up artist Lisa Aldridge and there have been different activities throughout the year that have enabled Chanel to maintain stronger awareness and a stronger brand image than Christian Dior.

Some other competitors of Dior fragrance include other French brands such as Lancome, Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Mugler and Estee Lauder. Also brands like Valentino, Burberry, Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford all have good selling fragrances.     

The Uk favourite perfumes 2014

Marc Jacobs- Daisy Dream

Cheryl- Stormflower

Paco Rabanne- Lady Million

Thierry Mugler- Alien

Boss- Ma Vie

Marc Jacobs- Daisy

Thierry Mugler- Angel

Jean Paul Gaultier- Classique Intense

Dolce and Gabbana- Dolce

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Dior SWOT analysis

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Current fragrance market

The graph above shows some of the keys player in the beauty industry.

According to mintel:

The UK fragrance market slowed in terms of growth in 2012 to £1.42 billion whilst further growth is predicted through 2013 of 3.4% to £1.47 billion. The prestige sector continues to drive value sales (82% vs 18% for mass) as consumers continue to buy into inexpensive luxuries during times of economic hardship. However, growth has slowed in comparison with previous years as consumers look to take advantage of more discount deals and loyalty schemes.
The market remains focussed on women’s fragrances, which account for the majority of value sales, although men’s products are beginning to pick up the pace with growth of 4.5% estimated for 2013 thanks to a host of high profile fragrances for men in recent years.
Usage remains high for all adults at 91%, but shoppers remain relatively uneducated on fragrances and strong opportunities for growth await the retailers or brands that can successfully increase consumer knowledge about fragrances. The wide selection of scents and strengths available prove as much of a hindrance as a help to today’s consumer, whilst the young orientation of advertising further alienates older fragrance users. Launches largely rely on branding and celebrity to attract interest, although scents are also becoming increasingly more unusual to create a point of differentiation. New introductions include fragrances based on the smell of books, the ballet and even the internet.

Seasonal editions remain a key portion of the market, accounting for one in five fragrance launches in 2012. Such products offer limited commitment by manufacturers and appeal to users who want to vary their scent throughout the year or take advantage of gifting options. Almost half of adults (45%) bought perfume or aftershave or toiletries as gifts for Christmas 2012. 

Certain issues for consumers include:
-allergen regulations- allergens and chemical ingredients continue to hold consumer attention.
-consumers demand longer-lasting products
-The threat of savvy shopping spawns a price vs experience battle-Beauty spend remains strong but consumers save money online

-There is a strong interest in refillable products
-Environmentally friendly packaging remains prominent
-Evocative and collectable, collectable fragrance bottles
-More smaller size versions of fragrances- handbag-sized products appeal to women.
- Women most likely to be occasion wearers

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LE PEST C

Legal- This includes discrimination law, consumer law, labour law, competition law, and health and safety law. Dior needs to follow all of these laws in order to stay a company. These factors can affect how a company operates, its costs, and the demand for its products. Intellectual property (or IP) refers to creative work which can be treated as an asset or physical property. By knowing your rights and having the right type of protection you can stop people stealing or copying. This was something Dior focused on, in order to make boundaries so people couldn't copy his unique work.

Dior website

Legal- Intellectual property for the fashion accessories at Dior.

There are license agreements with many stores that can sell Dior items such as accessories, fragrances, beauty and eyewear but clothing is generally only sold in store at Dior. Dior was one of the first brands to use license agreements allowing production of goods under the Dior name in separate production centres, which quickly helped in spreading the brand globally. 

Ethical- main ethical issues within the fashion industry include sweatshops, child labour, the environment, racism, animal cruelty, ageism and body image.

When John Galliano made his anti-semitic remarks, it caused a lot of outrage with many people, this is an example of how Dior kept in touch with the ethics, as the brand needs to keep up with its good reputation.   

Political- Factors effects the organizations in terms of government regulations and legal issues and define both formal and informal rules under which the firm must operate. Examples are 

• Political stability
• Tax policy
• Employment and labor law
• Environmental regulations
• Trade restrictions
• Tariffs etc

Economic- factors affect the business operations and decision making of the organization. For example the predicted recession is preventing the organizations from increasing the workforce . Other examples are:

• Economic growth
• Interest rates
• Inflation rate 

The fashion industry is worth around 26 billion to the Uk economy and provides 797,000 jobs.Currently China is one of the richest countries in the world. If you ask any luxury retailer they would probably say that their most valuable customers are from China. When the financial crisis hit in 2008 it was not easy for the luxury market but Chinas love for expensive, luxury goods made up for the slowing down of European consumption. It is estimated that half of the world's luxury spending will come from the Chinese alone next year. However, although they are spending money on luxury goods it is not in their own country, around two-thirds of luxury products bought by Chinese (and often made in China) are purchased outside the country.The main reason for this is price. Import tariffs and consumption taxes, as well as higher pricing strategies, can increase prices in China to 50% more than a shopper would pay elsewhere.

Christian Dior holds about 8.2% of the global branded fragrances business. Like many brands, a lot of money gets put into advertising and promotion as these are crucial in order to for a brand to grow and increase the productivity.

Social-  factors refer to the cultural and demographic aspects of the environment. For example increase in the health consciousness may affect the demand of the company’s product. Other factors could include:

• Age distribution
• Population growth rate
• Emphasis on safety
• Career attitudes

Economic and political changes, can overlap and fundamentally change how a society thinks. brands can’t hope to predict every possible change, paying attention to the major social factors that drive change can help prepare them to adapt.

Technology- With the fashion industry being a very fast paced industry, that is forever changing, brands need to keep up to date wight the latest technology in order to reach their audience and expand the awareness of their brand. This is making sure that they have an e-commerce sites and making sure they are present on all social media platforms. On February 27, 2013, instagram announced that they had 100 million users, and so social media such as instagram, Facebook, twitter, tumblr has become a great way to advertise. The way that people watch fashion shows has also changed, with many of the shows during fashion week being streamed live for everyone to see. As well as online, technologies in store are developing. Large, high quality digital images and films are being shown in certain stores such as Burberry Regents street and Gucci in Milan. This provides an exciting experience for consumers in the store. 

Dior is very accessible on digital media platforms for example they have:

A facebook page

Website

Twitter page

Youtube Channel

Instagram

Competitive advantage

Although Dior is a successful and influential brand there is still tough competition from other companies which fall in the same market sector. For this reason it is important to maintain a good reputation and the high standards, making sure they have a USP and strong brand identity. Chanel is Diors biggest rival and for the past 4 years Diors perfume ranges have been bigger sellers than Chanel. On the other hand, in terms of handbag sales, Chanel leads with and increase in sales over the past 2 years. They are constantly trying to out do each other, by placing stores next to each other, as well as make-up counters, but competition is just something that brands have to compromise with and work around.

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Diors current ranges of fragrances

Dior currently has 8 ranges of perfumes

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Diorissimo Campaigns

Rene Gruau created many fashion illustrations for Christian Dior. He loved fashion that aspired to a form of sophistication in which the accessory reflects a lifestyle and a mindset. I think his illustrations are very beautiful however, they do not feel fresh and modern. There is a strong emphasis on the flowers as it is a floral fragrance. I know that this is an element which I want to incorporate in my campaign, as it references the passion of flowers that Christian Dior had, keeping the sense of history to the brand.  

Rene Gruau would use a broad, flowing brushstroke, pen, Indian ink and gouache onto a ground of flat tone for his illustrations. He drew on many artistic influences, such as Japonisme. The toned down, pale green against the black dress and heavy outlining, really makes the form of the body prominent, which suggests a strong, confident woman, but also Dior explained he wanted to create a flower woman with “soft, sloping shoulders, generous busts, a slim waist and wide skirts like flower petals.”  The model is carrying a bouquet of flowers which emphasises Christian Diors passion of flowers and gardens. The flowers appear to be white, which suggests that they are lily of valleys, which is the main scent and essence of the Diorissimo perfume. The bare back and shoulders, and smooth contours of the body adds sensuality to the image, but also we cannot see the models face which adds a mysterious touch. The model appears to be quite young, maybe in her 20s, and she seems like a woman who is admired and loved. This is suggested by the bunch of flowers she is holding as someone may have given them to her. 

These campaigns have a strong emphasis on the bottle and also on the
houndstooth print in the two on the right. I don't feel as though the houndstooth print is something I would like to develop or keep as there doesn't seem to be a major significance to scent. It can also come across very dated and ‘granny’ like, particularly in these campaigns. These are French campaigns as the text is written in French, but I like the idea of including French words in my campaign to stay true to Diors French roots.

Nowadays an ad just showing the perfume alone is not enough. Consumers want an atmosphere and narrative that allows them to be taken into another world, which makes them want to buy into it and be a part of an experience.    

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Diorissimo

Overview of Diorissimo the perfume

-Diorissimo is a romantic fragrance which was launched in 1955

-It is part of the Les creations de Monsieur Dior. 

-It is classified as a refreshing, spring flowery fragrance

-Over time the formula and packaging has been changed, but still remains a florally, spring scent.

-Above is a picture of the original bottle which was designed by Guéricolas,   

-It has a blend of jasmine, lily of the Valley, amaryllis, boronia and ylang-ylang. Lily of the valley was Christian Dior’s lucky flower; he believed that it was the symbol of hope, happiness and joy. The French considered it to be a legendary flower.

-It was the fourth fragrance to emerge from Dior

- Christian Dior was superstitious and attentive- he would slip a spring of lily of the valley into the hem of every one of his haute couture models pocket for luck. 

-It was one of Princess Dianas favourite perfumes 

-It was originally targeted at younger girls however nowadays the smell is more suited to the older generation. (the young girls of the late 50s/60s that wore the fragrance will now be older and may still wear the fragrance)

-The creator from Grasse, France, Edmond Roudnitska, wanted to create a perfume that would be revolutionary and break the trend of sweet perfumes that were dominating the market. The goal was to create a perfume that’s simple and luminous. He wanted the scent to create the idea of sitting in a beautiful garden during spring. Dior and Roudnitska met in 1955 a year later in 1956 Diorissimo was created

-some past bottles

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-Since the perfume was rebranded the shape of the bottle has been made a lot more modern. They wanted to create a bottle which showed something personal of Christian Dior himself. The idea of the shape was based on a particular chair that Dior would sit in to sketch. He would also make models sit in the chair to help inspire his work. 

Below are descriptions from the Dior website of the notes which are featured in the perfume.

-Today Diorissimo is also the name of a range of their bags, which are shown through Raf Simons's sense of modernity and newness. 

Dior Autumn/winter 2014-15 RTW campaign

featuring Diorissimo bags

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